Do it Yourself Drywall Installation

Do it yourself drywall installation isn't difficult, but you do need to have the right tools and take the time to create smooth finished seams. Having a couple of helpers won't hurt either.

Drywall typically comes in four-foot by five-foot sheets and in thicknesses between a quarter and five eighths of an inch. Paper sheets with a gypsum core, drywall is relatively easy to work with, but can be fragile. When preparing for an installation, be sure to have these tools and materials on hand:

• Drywall tape
• Joint compound
• Drywall screws (not nails)
• Drill
• Panel lifter (drywall specific tool)
• Drywall T-square
• Drywall saw
• Sawhorses
• Tape measure
• Drywall knives
• Utility knife
• Rasp
• Sponge

There are specialty drywall preparations and configurations that are available if you need them, including longer and wider sheets, and water resistant backboard that's usually sold as a smaller panel and used as a backing for tile.

• Buy drywall sheets that are the same length as your wall.

• For a stronger installation, hang sheets with the long-end running parallel to your floor. This will save on materials and spare your back some extra work.

• Start at the ceiling line and work down. If your last row isn't the full width of a sheet, it will be less visible at floor level.

• Use drywall screws instead of nails, they're less likely to pop out or cause problems later.

• Never force panels into position. Even if you manage to manhandle them into place, they'll distort and give you trouble later.

• Use a utility knife to trim your work, and employ a rasp to refine the edges.

• To make accurate cuts, use a utility knife and drywall T-square to make scoring cuts through the top layer of drywall paper and into the underlying gypsum. Deepen the scoring through a couple of additional passes. Finish the cut by folding the panel away from you until it gives way and cut the back paper at the fold with the utility knife.

• Measure sheets about a quarter of an inch shorter than the area in which they'll be installed. Start drilling screws in the center of the panel and work out rather than starting on either end.

• Maintain a small gap of about a half-inch between the bottom of the drywall panel and the floor. This is one of the ways a panel lifter will come in handy. Don't worry; the baseboard will cover the gap.

• Cut openings in drywall panels for doors and windows before hanging them. For smaller cutouts, like outlets, outline the object using chalk or lipstick and then set the panel over the opening. The chalk will transfer to the back of the drywall panel and you can use it as a cutting guide.

• All joints should be beveled before taping. To bevel butt joints, or short ends, make a one-eighth inch, 45-degree cut on both panel ends with a utility knife to prepare the seam for taping.

• Instead of powder, use a premixed joint compound to fill drywall seams. You won't have to worry about it drying prematurely. Choose paper over fiberglass tape when using premixed compound.

• Most finishing techniques require three coats: taping, a covering coat, and a finishing coat. Be sure to wait at least 24 hours between each step to allow the compound to dry completely.

• The consistency of your finishing coat should be a little thinner than the first two. This will make it easier to feather the edges for a smooth finish.

• Each coat you apply will be wider than the last. To get the best finish, use drywall knives in three widths: six inches, eight inches and 12 inches.

• Once the final coat has dried, use a damp sponge to help create a silky finish. It may save you from having to drag out the sander to complete your do it yourself drywall installation.

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