Drywall Installation Technique

When finishing a room, having the right drywall installation technique can mean the difference between a professional looking job and one that looks patched and bumpy.

Drywall, or wallboard, is a sandwich of fire resistant gypsum between two layers of heavy-duty paper. Drywall comes standard in four-foot widths and is available in a variety of lengths. It can also be purchased with a number of edge styles, the most common is a tapered edge that makes it easier to seam panels together. The following suggestions will help you achieve a smooth and professional looking drywall installation technique on a do-it-yourself budget:

• If you're installing drywall from scratch, start with the ceiling and work down. Shorter cuts will look less noticeable close to the floor.

• Make a sketch of how you plan on laying out the installation. Your goal here is to choose a method that will require the fewest number of joints. You can select a horizontal or vertical layout and purchase panel lengths that will most closely correspond with the dimensions of your room.

• The fewer cuts you have to make, the better. Although this seems simple, you'll have to evaluate your cutting and layout strategies relative to how many laborers will be working on the project. Although drywall isn't super heavy, it is cumbersome to work with, especially if you're trying to work solo or with an inexperienced helper.

• To muscle panels into place and hold them there, buy, make, or rent a panel lifter. This will help act as a third hand to steady your work. You can jury-rig a foot operated lift by placing two scraps of wood on the floor perpendicular to one another. The edge of a drywall panel will be on one end of the top piece of wood, while you balance and lift it with your foot pressing on the other end of the same piece of wood. Think of a teeter-totter and you've got the idea. A commercial panel lifter is the better solution, especially if you've got a large area to install. You can usually rent one at your local home improvement retailer.

• Start nails four inches from the ceiling and space subsequent nails six inches apart along the studs.

• Use a hammer with a crown head to dimple the area around nails. This can be tricky, so use some caution the first few times you try it, and start in an inconspicuous area. You'll learn quickly how much force to apply to the final hit.

• Always take the extra time to make straight, sharp cuts. Use a drywall T-square and a new, sharp utility knife to help you.

• Score and cut the front face of the drywall with the utility knife, then bend the panel to create a mark on the back paper. Turn the panel around and then use the utility knife to cut the paper on the back.

• Clean up panel edges with a rasp.

• Make small interior cuts in drywall panels, like for switches and small windows, before you nail them into place. One neat way to do this without being mathematically inclined is to mark the area you want to create the opening for. An old construction trick is to use lipstick, but you can just as easily use chalk or a little craft paint. Outline the area with the marker and then lift the drywall panel into position. A little of the marker will rub off onto the back of the drywall, giving you a cutting guideline.

• One of the arts of drywall installation is in making joints that blend so well that they become invisible. To create better seams, the following tips will help you get a smooth, even finish every time:

• Take plenty of time to fill the recess between the tapered edges of drywall with joint compound. You want to create an even, flush seam. A six-inch wide drywall taping knife works well for this.

• Position drywall tape along the seam and press firmly so that the tape sinks into the compound. If you're doing it right, there will be a little compound displacement around the tape.

• Smooth the compound along the seam. Allow it to dry completely according to the manufacturer's directions.

• Apply a second coat of joint compound after the first has dried thoroughly. This second layer will extend a couple of inches farther on either edge of the joint. Use a wider drywall knife for this; about eight inches should do it. Allow this second coat to cure thoroughly.

• Apply a third layer of joint compound using a 10 to 12 inch drywall knife. Widen the area to about six inches on either side of the joint.

• Feather and smooth the seam and allow it to dry completely.

• Refine the seam with a damp sponge. This will help create a silkier finish and reduce or eliminate the need for sanding.

• Sand seams smooth as needed. Start with medium grit sand paper.

Your drywall installation technique will improve as you go, so start in an inconspicuous area and save the most visible wall in your room for last.

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