Installing Wood Flooring

Wood flooring is experiencing a renaissance in home design, and installing wood flooring is easier now than ever before. This a is project that even a beginner can tackle. The hard work is in evaluating and preparing the existing floor.

Wood flooring is available in finished and unfinished varieties. Of the finished varieties, there are a number of types to choose from, like strip flooring, parquet, and engineered flooring. Each has its advantages, and your level of skill and the current floor you're working with will have a lot to do with your final selection.

Strip flooring typically comes in narrow widths from 2 1/4 to 3 1/2 inches that are staggered from row to row. They typically fit tongue and groove, with the tongue portion nailed into the sub-floor and the groove fitting over the tongue and concealing the nails. A less thick style of this type of flooring can be installed with an adhesive instead of nails, making the job even easier.

This patterned wood is sold in 12" x 12" squares, like tile, and is installed tongue-and-groove, and then held in place with adhesive. It is one of the easiest wood floor types to install.

Although engineered flooring is often considered the territory of synthetic laminates, engineered flooring can be hardwood. It is actually a wood sandwich with hardwood on top and plywood on the bottom. This can be installed in areas where other wood flooring doesn't work well, like over concrete.

There are some things you should keep in mind when installing wood flooring. Prep work is important. The way you prep the old floor is going to have a big impact on the finished project. Putting together a layout strategy is important too. Do this before you ever grab a hammer.

Wood flooring can be installed over an existing floor if the floor is level and not damaged. Factors that may make an existing floor a bad or challenging candidate for a wood makeover are:

• Tile floors
• Bumpy or ridged floors
• Floors with low or spongy spots
• Water damaged floors
• Concrete floors

When these conditions exist, it may be necessary to install a 3/4" plywood sub-floor, level the existing floor with leveling compound, or possibly both.

Always deal with moisture issues before you consider installing wood flooring, and let the area dry out thoroughly. It may also be necessary to install a moisture barrier under the new floor to protect it from cupping.

Once you decide that your existing floor can be used as an underlay and have selected your new flooring, get ready for the install by following a few simple steps:

• Clean the floor, and abrade it slightly with a scrubbing compound if you intend to use adhesive to glue the new floor in place.

• Remove the shoe molding from the walls and set it aside for reinstallation later.

• Trim the bottom of the door jams with a hand saw to accommodate the thickness of the new floor.

• Place your materials, like wood and adhesive, in the room or nearby at least 24 hours before the planned install. This will allow them to come up to room temperature. Wood expands and contracts, so starting with your materials at the same temperature as the room will help you avoid nasty surprises later.

• Make a drawing of the room and plan your layout strategy. Chances are that whatever shape, length, or width of wood you're using, it will not fit the dimensions of the room exactly. Envision how someone new will see the space. Where will their eyes fall when they first walk into the room? That spot should have the most finished look. You should also measure to determine how wide the short cuts are going to be. They should be evenly distributed on opposing walls.

• Read the manufacturer's directions and recommendations thoroughly. Among other things, they will know what types of tools you should use, what kind of curing time an adhesive will need, and what types of nails you should use.

Different flooring types will call for different installation strategies. The manufacturer's instructions will be very helpful here. These general guidelines will help too:

• Always work in a well-ventilated area if you are using adhesives or generating sawdust.
• Snap a chalk line for your starter row and make sure that it is completely straight. Use it as a guide.
• Work on one manageable area at a time.
• If you are working with parquet flooring, lay out the tiles in a triangular pattern. It will help you deal with minor sizing difference between tiles.
• If you are working with wood strips, lay the wood parallel to the longest wall in the room.
• Leave a 1/2 inch gap along the walls to allow the wood to expand.
• Try to work from a number of boxes or bundles of wood at a time. This will guarantee that you'll blend the variations in graining from the different boxes throughout the entire floor.
• If you're working with adhesive, never lay down more than you can cover in a three to four hour period.

Hardwood floors add beauty and value to your home, and this is one do-it-yourself project that will be worth the effort and time you take to do it right.

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